View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
dresdenwitch

Posts: 63
Joined: 07 Jul 2012
|
Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 1:51 pm Post subject: can't find corners |
|
|
I'm working on this tutorial for making a mug.. just to learn UVLayout... and now I've come to this problem... I have used 'R' to relax the pieces into oblongs but I can't do it with this part as when I try it comes up with
can't find corners
So the question is... how do I find the corners so that I can relax this part. I can see when I put the checker pattern on it that it does need it.
Thank you  |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
dresdenwitch

Posts: 63
Joined: 07 Jul 2012
|
Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 5:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
O.K.. so I thought that if I changed the 'cut' line it would make a difference... I still can't 'R' relax it as now it just goes and looks like one of those string art things we used to so in school.
So I still need to be able to find those corners. Would it be like pinning it? The trouble is half the time I don't know the name of what I am looking for.  |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
headus Site Admin

Posts: 2902
Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
|
Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 6:44 pm Post subject: |
|
|
When the 'R' tool is looking for corners, its actually looking for 4 "valence 1" vertexes. So what that means in English is that its looking for any vertexes where only 1 polygon is connected.
I've drawn some blue dots over these vertexes in your image, so you can see on that shell there's many of these valence 1 vertexes, so that's why its saying "cant find corners". It really should say "found too many corners" ... just another unhelpful error message :) I'll fix that!
So if you trim off those end bits then you should be able to use the 'R' key, and then you can weld those small bits back on after wards.
I've already had a request for a "just make it a grid" tool, which would work for this shell without any need for further cutting.
Phil |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
dresdenwitch

Posts: 63
Joined: 07 Jul 2012
|
Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Wow... thank you for that Phil... worked great... now all I have to do is some 'fine tuning'.. but I'm getting there.  |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
headus Site Admin

Posts: 2902
Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
|
Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Great!
But I see you've marked those end pieces for welding (the red edges) but they're not actually joined yet. You need to tap the "Enter" key with the mouse pointer over the middle shell to finish that process.
Phil |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
dresdenwitch

Posts: 63
Joined: 07 Jul 2012
|
Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks Phil... I was wondering about that.. however.. then I thought I would try it this way... which was a lot less messing around and as I really only wanted the main part for texturing.. eg.. pics or words... I'm not to worried what the handle and the thin part looks like... as long as I put a plain texture on the rest of the mug.
Can you see a problem with doing it this way? |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
headus Site Admin

Posts: 2902
Joined: 24 Mar 2005
Location: Perth, Australia
|
Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
No worries, what you're doing there should be fine if you're only mapping the rest of the cup.
Phil |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
dresdenwitch

Posts: 63
Joined: 07 Jul 2012
|
Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:44 pm Post subject: |
|
|
O.K. Phil... here's a quick texture just to see what it was like... that was my low poly mug.. now I am going to work on the higher polycount mug.. but I seem to have the basic's now so I shouldn't have too much trouble. ... hah... famous last words.  |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
|